Life in the Shein Village

Workers in Shein’s supply chain often endure grueling schedules, clocking up to 75 hours weekly. In Guangzhou’s Panyu district, also known as the “Shein village,” the hum of sewing machines dominates the air. Factories churn out garments destined for over 150 countries, from t-shirts to swimwear.

“If there are 31 days in a month, I work 31 days,” a worker shared. Many others reported only one day off monthly.

During a BBC investigation, reporters visited ten factories, spoke with four owners, and interviewed over 20 workers. They found that Shein’s operations rely heavily on labor-intensive processes, often violating Chinese labor laws. Employees face long hours to meet global demand, with some working from 8:00 AM to past 10:00 PM.

This industrial hub attracts rural migrants seeking better wages, but it comes at a cost. Workers in Shein’s supply chain earn between 4,000 and 10,000 yuan monthly, often paid per piece produced. One woman from Jiangxi explained, “I make about a dozen t-shirts an hour, earning one or two yuan each.”

Despite these efforts, wages remain below the 6,512 yuan needed for a “living wage,” according to advocacy group Asia Floor Wage Alliance. Public Eye, a Swiss organization, corroborated findings of excessive hours and low pay.

Shein’s Meteoric Rise Amid Controversy

Shein’s business model thrives on volume and discounts. Dresses sell for £10, sweaters for £6, and prices average below £8. These low costs are fueled by Panyu’s 5,000 factories, most of which are Shein suppliers.

As demand surges, factory floors stay busy late into the night. Workers toil under industrial fans and fluorescent lights, with breaks limited to quick meals in nearby streets.

Shein’s rapid growth has attracted scrutiny. Worth an estimated £36bn, the company is now eyeing a London Stock Exchange listing. However, allegations of forced labor and child labor mar its reputation. Shein admitted to discovering child workers in its supply chain last year.

In response, the company claims to invest millions in compliance and governance. “Shein is committed to fair and dignified treatment of all workers,” a spokesperson said, emphasizing their collaboration with auditors.

However, critics like David Hachfield of Public Eye highlight systemic exploitation. “These hours are illegal and violate basic human rights,” he said.

The Challenges Ahead

Shein faces mounting challenges, from accusations of using forced Uyghur labor in Xinjiang to maintaining investor confidence. Transparency is a key issue, as experts call for public disclosure of its supply chain.

Despite these obstacles, Shein benefits from China’s robust manufacturing ecosystem. Unlike competitors in Vietnam or Bangladesh, China’s supply chain is self-contained, enabling rapid production. This advantage aligns with Shein’s data-driven approach, where algorithms dictate production based on shopper behavior.

Factory owners acknowledge the dual-edged nature of Shein’s influence. Orders are large, but profits are tightly controlled. “We used to set our own prices,” one owner said. “Now, Shein dictates the cost, forcing us to cut corners.”

Yet, many view Shein as a reliable partner. “It pays on time, whether millions or tens of millions,” said Guo Qing E, a supplier. For some workers, Shein symbolizes pride in Chinese manufacturing.

As night falls in Panyu, the rhythm of the machines continues. Even after midnight, workers strive to meet quotas, driven by the promise of better earnings. For shoppers in cities like London or Dubai, these efforts ensure a steady flow of bargain-priced fashion.