A revolutionary new commercial expedition plans to scale Mount Everest in just one week, dramatically reducing the typical climbing timeline. This bold attempt, led by Austrian guide Lukas Furtenbach, involves bypassing traditional acclimatization methods and using xenon gas to accelerate the body’s preparation for high altitudes. While the innovation is exciting, it raises significant concerns among mountaineers and medical professionals, who question the safety and effectiveness of this untested method.

From Two Months to One Week: A Radical Approach to Everest Climbing

Climbing Mount Everest has traditionally been a long and grueling process. Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay spent over two months reaching the summit in 1953, gradually acclimatizing to the thinning air by returning to lower camps. Their efforts were part of an extended siege on the mountain, with ropes and ladders laid across the route to aid progress.

In modern expeditions, climbers still typically spend around two months preparing for the final ascent. This includes several weeks trekking to base camp and undergoing acclimatization in progressively higher camps to help the body adjust to the lower oxygen levels. Even with the assistance of Sherpa guides and advanced equipment, climbers must allow ample time for their bodies to adjust to the extreme altitude.

But this year, a new approach aims to drastically reduce that timeline. Furtenbach’s expedition, which costs €150,000 (£127,000/$170,000) per person, eliminates the three weeks of acclimatization that climbers usually require. Instead, the group will fly to Kathmandu, take a helicopter to base camp, and begin their ascent almost immediately.

The Role of Xenon Gas in High-Altitude Acclimatization

Furtenbach’s radical new method relies on the inhalation of xenon gas. This gas is thought to stimulate erythropoietin (EPO) production in the body—a protein that promotes the creation of red blood cells. At high altitudes, where oxygen levels are much lower, the body naturally produces more EPO to help compensate. Furtenbach believes that xenon can artificially stimulate this process before the climbers even set foot on the mountain, potentially improving their ability to cope with the extreme conditions.

However, clinical evidence to support this claim is still limited. A scientific review of xenon inhalation found no conclusive proof that it significantly boosts EPO levels in humans. Dr. Andrew Peacock, a professor at the University of Glasgow, expressed doubts about whether the body can produce enough red blood cells in the short time frame of a few days.

Furtenbach, however, argues that his method offers an opportunity to avoid some of the dangers of long exposure to the mountain, such as storms, avalanches, and illness. By reducing the time spent on Everest, he believes climbers can improve safety and potentially achieve a faster summit.

Skepticism from Mountaineering Experts and Medical Authorities

While Furtenbach has successfully run “flash” expeditions in the past, critics remain skeptical of his xenon-based approach. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation’s medical commission has warned against the use of xenon without proper scientific validation. They also raised concerns about the potential for dangerous blood clots that could arise from the increased red blood cell production stimulated by EPO.

American guide Adrian Ballinger, who has led Everest expeditions without using performance-enhancing gases, is another vocal critic. Ballinger’s team summited Everest in just 14 days in 2019 by using altitude chambers for pre-acclimatization. However, not all experts are entirely opposed to the idea. Dawa Steven Sherpa, a well-known guide with Asia Trekking, suggested that if xenon is proven safe, it could help protect Sherpas, who frequently face the most physically demanding work on the mountain.

The Risk of Hypoxia and the Limits of the Human Body

Reaching Everest’s summit is a battle against hypoxia, or lack of oxygen. The air at Everest’s base camp (5,500 meters) contains only about half the oxygen found at sea level, and this drops to one-third at the summit (8,850 meters). Climbers must deal with the effects of oxygen deprivation, which can impair cognitive function and lead to life-threatening conditions.

The body naturally adapts to these conditions by increasing red blood cell production, a process known as erythropoiesis. But this adaptation takes time, and Furtenbach’s xenon method aims to shortcut that timeline. If successful, it could reduce the typical acclimatization period and potentially save lives by allowing climbers to ascend the mountain more quickly.

However, extreme hypoxia can lead to conditions like cerebral or pulmonary edema, where the brain or lungs swell due to fluid leakage. These conditions are often fatal without intervention. Many climbers carry oxygen canisters to help improve oxygenation, even though using supplemental oxygen is considered controversial by some in the mountaineering community.

Can Xenon Gas Revolutionize High-Altitude Performance?

The idea of using xenon gas for climbing originated from Dr. Michael Fries, an anaesthesiologist who had previously studied the gas’s effects in medical settings. Xenon has been used in various applications, including as an anaesthetic and in missile propulsion systems. Fries and his colleagues tested the gas in 2014, finding that inhaling a 30% xenon mix for 45 minutes led to increased EPO levels after about eight hours.

In 2020, Furtenbach tested the xenon method on Argentina’s Aconcagua, achieving the summit in just one week without prior acclimatization. His oxygen saturation at the summit was 89%, significantly higher than typical values observed at Everest’s higher altitudes.

Despite these promising results, the scientific community remains divided. Some experts, including Professor Mike Grocott, remain unconvinced that xenon provides enough benefit to allow a rapid ascent of Everest. They argue that the gas would need to be far more effective than current evidence suggests in order to support a seven-day summit.

The Final Ascent and the Future of Mountaineering

Furtenbach’s expedition is set to go ahead with four British climbers, all using xenon gas, supplemental oxygen, and the guidance of experienced Sherpas. The team hopes to complete the entire mission in just seven days, weather permitting. This ambitious project could redefine the future of Everest climbing—or it could prove to be a dangerous experiment.

The world will be watching closely as this daring climb unfolds. If successful, it could change the way high-altitude climbs are approached in the future, offering a new method for conquering the world’s highest peak in record time. Whether it proves to be a breakthrough or a step too far remains to be seen.